Feeling Lucky in Lisboa
Colorful, bright, and effervescent, Lisbon simmered with a delightful languid slowness by day and buzzed with excitement by night.
There is so much to love about Lisboa.
I haven’t been back to Europe since 2017 when I visited Italy, so this trip was a long, long time coming. Lisbon sat on my travel list for more than a year, but as soon as I landed, it honestly felt like a breath of fresh air.
Colorful, bright, and effervescent, there is something refreshing about this place. The city hugs the banks of the Tagus River, promising beautiful views at the top of every miradouro. Keep that in mind when you’re climbing all those hills. ;)
I visited in late June during Festas dos Santos Populares (Festival of the Popular Saints), which kicks off June 12th and ends June 29th. If you’re looking to experience authentic local nightlife, this is a great time to visit. Each neighborhood comes alive with festivals and concerts every night. People spilled into the streets, drinking, smoking, dancing to everything from Pimba music to house to reggaeton. When I landed, I grabbed a quick bite to eat at Timeout Market and joined one of the parties.
At night, Lisbon buzzed with excitement, but during the days, it simmered with a delightful languid slowness. On my first official day, I went on a food and cultural tour with Oh My Cod. If you’re ever in Lisbon, I highly recommend this tour. My group and I ambled through the streets, taking in the beautiful tiles and learning about the many communities that call Lisbon home, while tasting the city’s culinary signatures from bacalhau to port wines. We stopped at local spots where our guide, Marina, knew each of the owners from childhood. I sampled Mozambican cuisine, Indian staples, and classic Portuguese dishes. Both Mozambique and parts of India were colonized by Portugal and their cuisines have become part of Lisbon’s food story. As a Cape Verdean, I’m already very familiar with the Portuguese influence in our cuisine, but it was really unique to see how those influences came to be. This tour was also a fun way to get to know Lisbon and learn the country’s unique food history.
I’ve traveled to a few different cities in the last few years, and each one carries a different energy. Some cities make you rush, but Lisbon I savored— from its food, its culture, and its art. When I travel, I like to experience a balance of tourist and local activities. One of the to-dos on my tourist bucket list was the famous yellow Tram 28 that takes you through the Alfama, Graça, Baixa, and Estrela neighborhoods. The tram rattles through tight streets, and it’s a great option if you want to see Lisbon without the climb.
Of course, no trip of mine is really complete without stopping at an art museum. This is one of my favorite ways to stay inspired while I travel. Unfortunately, the Tile Museum was closed during my trip, but I went to the National Museum of Contemporary Art and the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology. There was a really cool exhibit at the MNAC by Alice Geirinhas about the European witch hunt in the 1500s and its attempt to control women’s reproductive health. Making time to see art helps my writing practice; it provokes new ideas, challenges my comfort zone, and always teaches me something new. That’s also what I love about travel.
I came to Lisbon for the culture and the food (hello octopus), but surprisingly, the best part of my trip was the World Cup. Football is obviously huge in Portugal, but with my Cape Verdean roots, it took on special importance. Cabo Verde made it to the World Cup for the first time, and the energy from our community was electric. Walking around with the Cape Verdean flag draped across my shoulders while screaming fans cheered me on, I’ve never felt more deeply connected to my roots.
Haiti also qualified for the first time in 52 years, so this was a momentous time to celebrate on both sides of my family. For most of my life, I’ve had to explain what and where Cabo Verde is. We’re a tiny nation, often forgotten, but after the World Cup, we know we’ll be remembered.
Part of why I travel is to learn something new about myself. I’ve been thinking a lot about taste lately — how we develop it and what it says about us. Scent is just as singular as style. It tells us so much about a person. It’s one of those subtle signals that draws us in or repels us. At the Nose Lab, I got to translate my tastes into a custom scent.
The owner, Wilian studied as a sommelier and prepared a personalized experience from the very beginning. My intake form asked about my coffee or tea preference, my favorite music and fragrances, including which ones I dislike. When I came in, there was coffee waiting and my favorite artists playing softly in the background. Wilian takes you on a journey through the scent ingredients you like, and I even came away with a few surprises.
Perfumes have 3 layers. Top notes make up your first impression of a perfume and dry off after a few minutes. This is usually citrus or light, refreshing scents. The heart notes come through as the top notes fade and make up the body of the fragrance, and finally the base notes, are the anchor that give richness and depth long after the notes have worn off. As Wilian unbottled each essence, we talked about what I liked or disliked in each of them.
I learned that I like resins for their deep lasting impact, and floral notes like desert lily of the valley and magnolia. On their own, I probably wouldn’t gravitate to the individual scents, but together their bouquet was overwhelming. At one point, with the fragrance of the unstoppered bottles wafting in the air, I felt my chest grow warm with emotion. I understood then how deeply scent can carry you to a memory or a feeling we’ve forgotten. In the end, I couldn’t decide between my creations and chose two perfumes. This was such a unique experience; I’d say it was genuinely 10/10. And if you’re able, I’d highly recommend booking your experience.
I’ve been thinking about Lisbon since coming home, its hills and winding roads, the architecture, the briny, salty flavors that brought to mind the Cape Verdean dishes I grew up eating. Perhaps because the city sits on my Sun line, I’ve never felt quite so alive and exhausted at once. Now that I’ve left, I finally understand how the Portuguese came up with saudade.
Places I Enjoyed
Thanks for reading! If you liked this update and want to support my travels, consider buying me a coffee.
My 2-Week Lisbon Packing Guide
When I was preparing for my trip to Lisbon, I watched so many different videos that I went cross-eyed. After spending two weeks in Lisbon, I’m going to share my packing list and tips for packing the right way.
If you’re wondering what to wear in June or July, expect warm to hot days ranging from mid 70s to high 80s ℉, while evenings are usually cooler. During my trip, a heat wave pushed temperatures above 90°F, but locals assured me that wasn't typical for the season.
Pack Breathable Fabrics
Prioritize breathable fabrics like linen and cotton. Women tend to wear maxi dresses and skirts, anything flowy and breezy. Locals wear pants even in the heat, but skip the denim, it will feel too heavy. Shorts won’t be out of place here, but you won’t see many short shorts.
Embrace Color
Lisbon is a colorful city and the same goes for its fashion. You can expect clothing with bright colors, patterns, and lots of sea motifs. Don’t be afraid to break out from your neutral base and play with color. Lisbon fashion tends to be relaxed but stylish.
Leave Room for Shopping
Save a little space in your luggage for unique finds and shopping. Picking up unique pieces is one of my favorite things to do on vacation, so if you’re anything like me, plan ahead and leave a little room for souvenirs. Lisbon is known for its tilework and handmade leather goods, so you’ll find plenty of option to take home. There were some cool Portuguese shops I visited: Ementa, Musi, and a shopping center in Chiado where you can also find your typical Zara, Stradivarious and the like.
Outerwear
Do you really need a jacket in Lisbon? During my trip, I packed one leather jacket strictly and even wore it a few times. Evenings in the city were generally mild and warm, but occasionally the temperature dropped into the 60s with a breezy wind. If you’re visiting the Algarve, where it’s frequently windy, I would say a jacket or shawl is a must, but I wouldn’t pack more than one.
Shoes
What shoes to wear in Lisbon was probably the question I researched the most before my trip. Because Lisbon is famous for its seven hills and slippery cobblestone streets, comfortable shoes make a huge difference. I wore 3 pairs of shoes on my trip: a sneaker, a platform sandal, and a block heel.
Sneakers
I’d recommend a comfortable but cute walking sneaker that still works for day and night. I saw people wearing Hokas, Onitsuka Tigers, and Adidas. My preference are the New Balance 237s.
These shoes go with everything in my wardrobe and have seen me through 30k step days. You’ll also see plenty of women wearing sneakers in the evening.
Sandals
Other than travel days, I stuck to wearing sandals. It was the most comfortable choice in the heat. My pick was the Reef Aura Serenity.
These are my ultimate travel shoes. They’ve made it through Mexico City, Montreal, Medellin, and plenty of other cities that don’t begin with M. They’re my favorite sandal for their durability, grip, and they look good with pants, skirts, and dresses. Reef also has many other waterproof styles if you’re visiting the coast on your trip.
My recommendation: any flatform sandal. They’re the most comfortable for walking around all day and keep your feet clean in the city. My friend wore a pair of Steve Madden sandals (pictured below), but I also saw plenty of slides and Birkenstocks.
Steve Madden Mona Sandal
Flats
Flats are popular in Lisbon too. You’ll see plenty of women dressing up their outfits with ballerina flats, Mary Janes, Tabby’s, etc. These aren’t my first choice because they usually lack the tread and arch support needed for long walking days. But if you love flats and yours have a decent grip, they’ll get you through your trip.
Heels
Now on to a contentious point. You can wear a heel to go out in Lisbon, it just requires more mindfulness. Skip the kitten heels, stiletto heels, etc. I promise, one night navigating cobblestones and hills in the city will have you reconsidering your life. If your outfit requires a heel, I recommend a sturdy block heel with good tread. I packed one pair from Target and wore it a few times on nights when I Ubered. If you love heels, pack one pair, but if you can make do with flats and sandals, skip them altogether.
Ultimately, the most important factor for your shoes are: good tread, comfort, and versatility.
Other Tips
Lisbon is accessible to several beaches, so be sure to pack a swimsuit. I always bring a sarong that I can use as a beach towel. It packs light and dries fast.
Bring a hat. I always bring a packable visor on my trips, and I never regret it.
A hand fan in your purse will go far.
Skip the flip flops unless you will be at the beach.
Build your travel wardrobe around complementary colors. Once your clothes and shoes all match, you’ll only need one purse.
My 2-Week Lisbon Packing List
2 Shorts
1-2 Pants
2-3 Skirts (Mini and Maxi)
7 Shirts
2 Dresses
1 Bathing Suit
3 Shoes
1 Jacket or Shawl
1 Purse